The Stone · 9 weeks out

Ring basics in ten minutes

You don't need to become a gemologist. You need four decisions and enough vocabulary that nobody can upsell you with it.

Decision 1

The stone

Natural diamond: the traditional pick, priced for scarcity. Lab-grown diamond: identical to look at, about a tenth of the price, close to zero resale. Moissanite or sapphire: different stones with their own look, good if your partner wants something that isn't a diamond. Your recon should have answered this one.

Decision 2

The shape

Round sparkles most and costs most. Oval looks bigger for the same weight and costs a bit less, which is why it's everywhere. Emerald is sleek and glassy. Cushion, pear, princess are all fine. Shape barely moves the price, so pick the one they'd want.

Decision 3

The setting

Solitaire: one stone, plain band. Never goes out of style, cheapest, easiest to resize. Pavé: small diamonds along the band. Halo: a ring of small stones around the center that makes it look larger. Three-stone: what it sounds like. When unsure, solitaire.

Decision 4

The metal

14k gold in yellow, white, or rose is the sensible default and the toughest. Platinum costs a few hundred more, stays white forever, and suits anyone hard on their hands. Match the color to the jewelry they already wear.

The four Cs, without the lecture

Every diamond is graded on four things. Here's where to spend and where to save.

GradeWhat it isWhat to buy
CutHow well it's shaped to throw light. This is the sparkle.Excellent or Ideal. Don't save money here.
ColorHow white it is, graded D (best) down through Z.G or H. Looks white, costs far less than D.
ClarityTiny internal marks, mostly invisible.VS2 or SI1, as long as it's clean to the naked eye.
CaratWeight, which roughly means size.Just under a round number: 0.9 looks like 1.0 and costs less.

With a lab-grown stone the price gaps between grades are small, so you can just buy high grades and stop thinking about it.

Now shortlist three

Pick three rings that fit the budget and the recon. Sleep on it. Show the accomplice if you have one. The right one is usually the one you keep scrolling back to, and it's usually the simplest of the three.

Next · 8 weeks out

Buy it properly

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