The Stone · 12 weeks out

Set the budget

Before you look at a single ring. Jewelry stores are very good at helping you discover you can afford more, and the number is easier to hold when you picked it at home.

The only rule

Spend what you can pay in full without touching your emergency fund. That's it. The "two months' salary" line was written by a diamond company's ad agency, which is a bit like letting the steakhouse set your portion size.

Store financing is where good budgets go to die. A deferred-interest card at 25 to 30 percent turns a $5,000 ring into a $6,500 one if you miss the promo window by a day. If the ring needs a payment plan, pick a smaller ring. You can upgrade the stone at an anniversary, and nobody has ever been upset by that.

What the money buys

Rough US online prices for a round stone in a plain gold setting, sensible grades. These move, so treat them as a map.

BudgetNatural diamondLab-grown diamond
$1,000Around 0.3 ct. Small and honest.1 ct with room to spare
$2,500Around 0.7 ct2 ct in a nicer setting
$5,000Around 0.9 to 1 ctWhatever size they'd actually wear, in platinum
$10,000Around 1.4 ctYou've run out of things to upgrade

Lab or natural: decide this now

A lab-grown diamond is a real diamond, same material and same sparkle, at roughly a tenth of the price. A natural one costs more because it's scarce and because that matters to some people. Neither is the wrong answer. The wrong answer is guessing which one your partner cares about. If you've never heard their opinion, see style recon, because this question is worth more than every other ring decision combined.

Leave room for the rest

  • Insurance: about 1 to 2 percent of the ring's value per year.
  • Appraisal: $50 to $150, needed for the insurance.
  • Resizing: often free the first time, otherwise $50 to $150.
  • The proposal itself: dinner, a photographer, a trip. Budget it now so the ring doesn't eat it.
Next · 11 weeks out

Figure out their style

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